The learning process can be significantly aided by choosing the appropriate location to start surfing. The best place to begin is on a calm, empty beach with waves that break easily and are no higher than 3 feet.
A crucial ability that needs a lot of practice is paddling a surfboard. Walk out on the board until you are waist-deep in the water, then lie on the deck with your weight evenly distributed across the board. Start paddling with your arms in a front crawl stroke, cupping your hands to maximize the power of each stroke. Determine the board position that offers the least amount of resistance is the goal. The ideal trim position has been found when the board starts to glide through the water with ease. Remembering the relative positions of your body and board will make future paddling much easier, so make a mental note of them.
When paddling out, a lot of beginners have trouble because they are constantly being battered by breaking waves. This can be avoided by using a technique known as “duck diving.” Hold the board’s edges (rails) tightly as the breaking wave comes closer. Aim to position yourself halfway between the wave’s nose and midpoint. Pointing the head downward and letting the body follow, shift all of the upper body weight to the hands and arms until the board tip starts to dip under the water. Once submerged, bend the front leg’s knee and use it to push the board’s tail under the wave. Only a brief amount of time is spent underwater thanks to forward momentum. Allow the board to float back to the surface once the wave has passed.
How to Stand Up
The appearance of an experienced surfer riding a surfboard is unmatched, and to the uninitiated, standing up on a board appears to be a simple process. But it quickly becomes apparent that it’s anything but simple when you consider that the surfboard is on a rolling, pitching surge of turbulent water. To get up from the prone position and maintain an upright position, one must simultaneously shift their weight in all directions. The need for a lot of practice is quickly made clear.
A great place to exercise is the beach. The “pop-up” motion from prone to standing is accomplished via a quick push through the feet. Press up while lying on the board while positioning it on the sand so as not to damage the fins. Hop onto the feet once the arms are fully extended. Pull both knees in towards the stomach. Once in the water, this series of motions will become automatic with regular practice.
The best time to try standing while surfing is when the board’s momentum exceeds the paddling speed. Holding both rails firmly, quickly lift yourself up, extend your arms fully, and pull your knees up to your chest. Place the leading foot close to the midpoint and the other foot close to the tail, and then plant the feet firmly. Crouching will help you keep your center of gravity low as you work to direct your weight over the middle of the board. As a balance aid, keep your arms out straight and your eyes straight ahead.